Monday 31 March 2008

March 31, 2008 Tales Of The Trail - Spirit Ravens

One of the really nice things about this Iditarod was the people I found myself traveling the trails with.

One musher that I particularly enjoyed spending time with was Kelley Griffin. If you don't know who Kelley is, you should. When she finished Iditarod this year, she became the first woman to have completed the Quest and Iditarod in one year. She did it in way that she seems to approach a lot of things - quietly, professionally and without a lot of fanfare.

Kelley and I shared a "Peace on Earth' pizza (the BEST pizza in Alaska) in Unalakleet before we both prepared to leave for Shaktoolik. I was ready a bit before her, but she hit the trail when I was still in sight of the checkpoint. Overall our teams were pretty closely matched in speed, with Kelley's Quest hardened bunch a bit faster on the hills then mine (who I do consider to be above average hill climbers - Kelley's were just super on hills).
The trail out of Unk runs along the coastline for a bit before making a steep climb, then leveling out a bit as you work your way through a valley in the Blueberry Hills. Once we crested the steep climb, our teams were traveling pretty close when a big raven appeared in the trees that were scattered along the valley.

Ravens are actually common along the Trail. These very clever birds have figured out that dog team equate food scraps and other interesting tidbits and they fly up and down the trail looking for free meals. They will often sit defiantly in the middle of the trail until the leaders almost catch them and then glide safely out of reach - but generally they look down their beaks at dog teams and their measly mushers, rarely interacting with them at all.

 This raven seemed a little odd right from the start. He sat in his tree and made a bunch of chattering and chirping sounds - very guttural and bizarre noises, even for a raven - who are normally very talented vocalists.

He carefully watched Kelley and my teams roll by and then swept over both of us, his head swiveling from side to side as he checked the teams out. He landed in another tall tree and gave a 'review' of the team to anyone that cared to listen.

After we passed by this time, he jumped off his tree and glided over the team again, this time diving low enough as he came along behind Moses, that Mo actually jumped to the side. That seemed to delight the bird and he made a bunch of chattering noises as he flew off to try his new game on Kelley's team.

I stopped to let Kelley's team pass and we both commented on this bizarre bird and his weird games.

For the next 10 miles or so this bird went back and forth between the teams, cackling and swooping as he went. He was obviously delighted with these games and his noises seemed like laughter at times. Neither the dogs nor I were really minding the games, it was amusing and a nice distraction.

We hit the next real climb on that leg and Kelley's team pulled a ways away from mine. The raven had vanished and it looked like the fun and games were over. The trail headed down into the next valley and there waiting for me were not one, but three ravens. All three were making the same strange noises that our first visitor had been making and all three delighted in making low dives over the dogs and I.

This little group stayed with me for about 5 miles or so before abandoning their games.

Dusk and eventually darkness slipped over us as we traveled the final miles across the sea ice to Shaktoolik.

Kelley was just finishing signing in when I pulled in. Once we were in the checkpoint, we both commented on our raven encounters. Apparently, other mushers saw ravens that were making weird noises, but no one else but Kelley and I were participants in 'raven games'. Kelley made the comment that she thought they must have been 'spirit ravens'. If they were (and I honestly don't doubt that they were), I would have loved to have met those spirits in their human forms, because they seemed like some fun loving, charming souls! Like the mushers around me - very enjoyable to travel with!

Karen

Tuesday 25 March 2008

March 25, 2008 Tales Of The Trail - A City Mouse in Unalakleet

So, I've decided to do something different this year. Rather then try to tell tales in chronological order; I'm just going to tell different tales as the mood strikes me. There will be neither rhyme nor reason to the order - it is just going to be telling the tales that strike me at times that strikes me! Maybe afterwards, if time permits, I'll do a blow by blow of the race too.


Tales of the Trail - 2008

A City Mouse in Unk

The reporter that approached me stood out like a sore thumb down on the sea ice on the edge of Unalakleet. His neat, clean and obviously new Columbia parka and LL Bean boots were in stark contrast to my dirty parka and beat up NEOS. There was no doubt he had showered that morning before jumping on a plane. I hadn't showered in about 9 days - and wouldn't for another 3 more.

He politely introduced himself as a reporter for the New York Times here to do a story on the Iditarod. Could he ask me a few questions? I smiled and said sure as I worked on sorting out my return gear and repacking my sled.  As he flipped open his pad of paper, I could picture the conversation that got him on a plane for Alaska. I imagined some cigar chomping J. Jamieson type (for you Spiderman fans out there) telling him he was going to go to Unalakleet, Alaska to do a story on the Iditarod. "The what, sir??". "Well, the Iditarod, Boy. Men and women from around the globe traveling 1150 miles through the wilderness of Alaska by dog team". (Sleep deprived minds can go interesting places!!).

I wondered what he thought of all this - and what he thought of me. How different I must seem from the New York women he knows. But yet, under the grime and frostbite, I'm just a city kid too. How exactly did I get here?? It still boggles my mind.

He asked me to spell my name and then fumbled as he realized his pen wouldn't write in the cold. He stuttered a bit and then excused himself to find a pencil in his overnight bag. As he stepped away from me his shiny new boots lost their purchase on the ice and he fell to the ground in a heap. I smothered a laugh and suggested we just start all over.

He retrieved a pencil and walked over to me again, introducing himself as a reporter for the New York Times here to do a story on the Iditarod. Could he ask me a few questions?? I smiled and said sure..

His questions were the basics and focused around the big question most 'outsiders' have - why?? How do you explain to someone that probably doesn't even own a pet, that takes cabs and buses to get everywhere, that most likely doesn't even have a backyard, that lives surrounded by millions of people the 'why' of this???

Heck, there are times I barely understand myself. Why would any sane person choose to spend 12 days in the wilderness - dirty, bruised, sleep deprived, wounded.away from most family and friends .away from all warm, secure and comforting?

I gave him the quotes he was looking for, but deep down I knew he didn't get it. I smiled, he smiled but our lives were too different for the other to fathom.

His story turned out pretty good - http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/13/sports/othersports/13dogs.html?_r=2&oref=slogin&oref=slogin  - but I really wonder what this clean, shiny New Yorker really thought of the dog mushers he met?

Monday 24 March 2008

March 24, 2008 Headed Home Soon

Well, looks like Hilda is not pregnant. Maybe a false pregnancy, maybe just that she is always alittle thicker through the waist then most of my girls....although the ITC vet techs did think they felt a pup when she was in for her pre race screening.
Who knows???

But it is now fairly obvious that there will be no Hilda x Jr babies. Of course, that is probably because I decided it was a pretty nice breeding and I was looking forward to the pups!  :)

So, that means we are scurrying back to Alberta pretty quickly. The plan is that we will leave early Wednesday morning and we should be back in the Tawatinaw Valley sometime on Saturday.

As much as we will miss all our friends and family in Alaska, both Mark and I are keen to get home. I'm sure the dogs are too!!

In the words of Paul Brandt (one of my favorite Albertans!) -

"Sign said 40 miles to Canada

My truck tore across Montana
Ian Tyson sang a lonesome lullaby
And so I cranked up the radio
Cause there's just a little more to go
For I'd cross the border at that Sweet Grass sign
I'm Alberta Bound

This piece of heaven that I've found
Rocky Mountains and black fertile ground
Everything I need beneath that big blue sky
Doesn't matter where I go
This place will always be my home
Yeah I've been Alberta Bound for all my life
And I'll be Alberta Bound until I die

It's a pride that's been passed down to me
Deep as coal mines, wide as farmer's fields
Yeah, I've got independence in my veins
Maybe it's my down-home redneck roots

Or these dusty 'ol Alberta boots
But like a Chinook wind keeps coming back again

I'm Alberta Bound

This piece of heaven that I've found
Rocky Mountains and black fertile ground
Everything I need beneath that big blue sky
Doesn't matter where I go
This place will always be my home
Yeah I've been Alberta Bound for all my life
And I'll be Alberta Bound until I die"


Alberta Bound,
Karen

Friday 21 March 2008

Blast from the Past - 21 March 2008 - The Pizza

Every year that Karen runs the Iditarod, she looks forward to the Unalakleet checkpoint so she can have, what she describes as "the best pizza in the world".

Peace On Earth Pizza  delivers just about anywhere, but when the mushers pull into the town, that's where they head.

In 2008 the members of the North Wapiti mail list decided it would be cool to pre-pay for Karen's pizza when she hit the checkpoint.  So many people chipped in, that we all decided that we'd pay for a pizza for Blake and Jen Freking as well.

After Karen finished, we asked her on the list how she liked her pizza, which she did, and commented that several mushers got free pizza, but as usual, she ordered hers from the checkpoint and had it delivered... she didn't get her free pizza!

There was a lot of speculating about what had become of the free pizza.

Wednesday 19 March 2008

March 19, 2008 Back In Willow

Just thought I'd take a moment to let everyone know that Dasher, Sprite, Tess, Crunchie, Watt, Charge, Barq, Hector, Moses, Jr, Batdog, Q, Mark and I all arrived back in Willow very late last night (or early this morning, depending on how you look at it). Everyone is doing great. The crew left behind were extremely noisy and welcoming with their greetings! Especially Kara and Jinx.

I will tell some more tales and such later, but just wanted to take a moment to answer the one question that everyone seems to have for me of late - and that is what about Snickers.

As sunset was just approaching Friday night, we crested Cape Nome and a lovely view of the coast and Nome lay in front of us. This has long been my favorite spot on the Iditarod Trail, not just for it's beauty, but for it's special significance to me. For my first finish in '01 and every one since, I have stopped at this spot and spent a
few moments thanking my dogs for the journey and telling them how much I value them all. I know many mushers do that in Nome, but I have always preferred to have that quiet, special moment with them out on the trail. Once we get to Nome things get so hectic and out of control. At the top of Cape Nome, finishing is pretty much a given, but you are still in the solitude and peace that signifies most of the journey. It is a special spot for me and where I have always known that Snickers belonged.
So, with a beautiful sunset beginning to color the sky, I set my hooks and scattered all but a small amount of Snickers ashes. I took time to tell her how much I adored and missed her and how I would never forget her. Then I turned my attention to my 12 current companions and told them each how much I valued, loved them and how thankful I was for their companionship and hard work on our journey to Nome.
Pets and ear scratches were given, I asked Snickers to watch over teams on their journeys into Nome, told her I'd see her again and then headed for the burled arch.

When we crossed under the finish line in Nome, I took the last bit of  her ashes and sprinkled them under the arch.

Lines from one of my favorite Robert Service poems ran through my mind -

"A promise made is a debt unpaid and the trail has it's own stern
code..."

The promise I made to her in Grayling last year was now paid.

Goodbye my friend.

Karen

Saturday 1 March 2008

March 1, 2008 Spider Is Back In!

Those of you watching the Ceremonial Start might have noticed that little Spidey Pants (as she is affectionately called) was running lead with superstar Dasher this morning. Now, some of you may be saying how nice that is that Spidey was able to participate in some way in the Race - however, no dog that has not cleared the pre race screening tests is allowed to participate in the Race in any way. So what gives, you ask??? WELL - I got a phone call from a rather stressed Dr. Baetsle at the Big Lake Clinic yesterday after the Open House. As impossible as this all seems - there is NOTHING wrong with Spider!!!! Never was!!! It seems that there was a glitch in their blood machine that caused Spider's results to appear abnormal. Thankfully, the Clinic had also forwarded some of Spidey's blood to an outside lab and when the tests didn't agree with the in house works, investigations began. It's a long story, but Dr. Baetsle felt completely confident approving Spider to run Iditarod after all the new information was gathered.  He phoned Dr. Stu Nelson, head vet for Iditarod and explained the whole situation to him. Stu felt an exception was mandated in this situation (all dogs need to be 'declared' as part of the team the Wednesday before the race) and this morning gave Spider approval to race. I did the 'happy dance' the whole way back to the dog truck!!

Of course, X is bummed, but he is a young boy and there will be many races for him down the road. He also did a great job on the Ceremonial run today, which he thought was a blast. He was making the most bizarre noises as the team was lead up into the chute today!! He was very excited by the crowds and excitement.

We had a blast today. Lots of friends and family were around to help out. Jamie West road my second sled for me. The dogs roared out of the chute. Unfortunately, we did run over a race volunteer 3 blocks into the run, but what was she thinking run out in front of charging dog team? I honestly didn't think she was really going to run across in front of me, so I didn't get on my brake till the last second.  Spider and Dasher each went a different direction around her, knocking her off her feet. I stopped to find out if she was okay and all reports were she was! Thank goodness. 



The rest of the run was pretty uneventful, just fun. We stopped lots and visited, let the dogs roll in the snow a number of times and I smiled for all 11 miles. We never saw another team, as we caught no one and no one caught us.

There was one moment early in the day that brought tears to my eyes. As we were still on 4th Avenue I went to offer my leaders a word of encouragement as we approached one of the road crossings. But what slipped out of my mouth was 'On By Snicks'. I don't think I've made that slip once since I lost her. Seems very appropriate that today was the day.

Too soon the run was over. The dogs were loaded into the truck and now it is time to get ready for the real deal. Tomorrow the real fun begins!

Karen

March 1, 2008 Ceremonial Start

Well, here we are - March 1st. Trainings done, team selected, gear ready..well mostly..It's almost time to hit the trail!!!

The meetings and all on Thursday were pretty painless. I find it really amusing to watch the 'names' in the sport all start jockeying for position in the race at the Musher's Meetings. They will question Race Marshall Mark Nordman in detail about specific rules, trying to find how flexible Mark is going to be in allowing them to push the rule. Mark isn't. He knows us all; he puts up with nothing and always keeps the spirit of the Race in mind when making judgments. Many competitors keep trying though and the dance is an amusing one to watch!


One thing I was saddened to hear is that they will no longer be allowing us to make phone calls home from checkpoints. Any internet access that we were allowed in the past is also gone. So, there will be no reports from the trail from mushers this year. Kind of sad, as I think that accessibility of mushers was always one of the coolest things about the sport.

A lot of the reason for this, in my opinion, is because of the new tracking devices they are testing on the trail this year. In order to keep the information from these devices available to only fans and not mushers, it is going to be necessary for them to keep a tight rein on us. They claim the fans want this, but I don't think the consequences of these devices, in terms of the effect on the competition and the changes in accessibility of mushers have ever been explained to the fans. I'm sure most of you don't want us turned from living, breathing human beings to icons on your computer screen. In my opinion, that is the direction the Race is going. Please, as fans you need to make your wishes heard. I recommend that you email Iditarod directly (http://www.iditarod.com/aboutus/contactus.html) and tell them what you want.

This is an important time in the history of this great event and I think we all, as fans and participants, need to make wishes heard.

Anyway, off my soapbox!!

I was pretty happy with my bib draw on Thursday night. Nineteen is a good number. I googled the number 19 and got a link to Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/19_(number) I really could find nothing inspirational in there, but I still think it sounds like a good number! J

It will mean we get home at a reasonable hour today so I can finish packing and tying up loose ends before my yearly 'vacation' begins tomorrow morning!

The Open House went very well yesterday. I'm sure the dogs rate Open House Day as one of their favorite things about Iditarod. They got smooshed and snuggled all day. Kara got showered in Denta Stix - to the point that we had to cut her off them. She looked splendid in her new 'Golden Collar' and even consented to pose for a few pictures with me before bolting up to the house to try to talk guests out of Doug's famous smoked salmon and/or more Denta Stixs. We figure that close to 100 people showed up yesterday. It was pretty cool. Lots of old friends and a number of new ones! We are so grateful to Jamie and Harry for not only allowing us to open their home, but for being great hosts and just putting so much of the event together for us! HUGE thanks to Heather Walls and Dan Rehak too, who not only were my 'marketing manager' and 'bankers' yesterday but who provided the beautiful maps of the kennel area, complete with pictures, so everyone could figure out who all the dogs were when I wasn't around.  We also appreciated the help of Don and Mary Uhlir, visiting from Arizona and my super cool niece, Corrine, who was helping out where ever she could and giving great tours of the dog yard!

Anyway, it is 4:30 now. Mark is up and I need to jump in the shower before we start loading dogs at 5am.

We will see many of you in Anchorage this morning. If you are in town, make sure to stop by and say 'hey'. That is what today is all about!

Updates and Photos

For the most recent updates and photos from Iditarod please bookmark our Iditarod 2008 page at -

Picassa Album updates from Mark:
 
 
http://picasaweb.google.com/northwapiti/2008CorrineHorseRide
Kim Berg
(website editor)

March 5, 2008

Update from Nikolai
Hello:
 
I heard from Karen this morning, she was just about to leave Nikolai. She will blow through McGrath and should get to Takotna around 7:00 PM Alaska time. When she gets to Takotna she will declare her 24 hour layover, which for her will be just over 26.5 hours.
 
She said that it was 40 degrees out on the trail yesterday and is taking it slow hoping that it will cool down later in the race.  Karen is a little behind on her schedule, but there will be plenty of opportunities to make it up later in the race.
 
Here in Willow it was 42 degrees and poured rain all day. The eight dogs left behind are all doing fine but Kara has stopped eating and spends all of her time looking at the house. Hilda is getting a bit of a baby bump, here do date is in less than three weeks.
 
That's all for now.
 
Later
Mark
 
March 5, 2008

Update from Nikolai
Hello:
 
I heard from Karen this morning, she was just about to leave Nikolai. She will blow through McGrath and should get to Takotna around 7:00 PM Alaska time. When she gets to Takotna she will declare her 24 hour layover, which for her will be just over 26.5 hours.
 
She said that it was 40 degrees out on the trail yesterday and is taking it slow hoping that it will cool down later in the race.  Karen is a little behind on her schedule, but there will be plenty of opportunities to make it up later in the race.
 
Here in Willow it was 42 degrees and poured rain all day. The eight dogs left behind are all doing fine but Kara has stopped eating and spends all of her time looking at the house. Hilda is getting a bit of a baby bump, here do date is in less than three weeks.
 
That's all for now.
 
Later
Mark
 

March 6, 2008

Update from Takotna
Hello:
 
I just got off the phone with Karen from Takotna.  Apparently its okay to use the phone on your 24 hour break as long as you don't tie it up for to long.
 
All the dogs are doing great, Batdog is a little dehydrated, but Karen still has over 12 hours to get him drinking again. Dasher, Jinx, JR, and Moe have done all the leading.  Watt has been Karen's Superdog.
 
While crossing the burn Karen tipped the sled and was dragged for a bit, and in the process had her pants pulled down to her ankles.  While she was correcting this rather embarrassing situation her hand got slammed into a rock and it swelled up.  Before the race I told Karen to remove her wedding ring, but she refused.  At one of the next check points, I'm not sure which one, she had to get the ring cut off.
 
Karen said that Jeff Shultz, and the camera crews have been taking lots of pictures and video of her and the team in Takotna, so keep your eyes open.
 
Last year the ITC made the decision that mushers had to supply their own shipping crates to get the teams out of Nome. I've got 12 crates lined up, but if things keep going the way that they are it looks like I'll have to find a few more to get our dogs home.
  Mark

March 6, 2008

  Update from Takotna

Go figure, Now they are telling us there we can use the computer here!!! As Mark reported, things are going very well. It is however in the mid 40's temperature wise and that has me pretty stressed. The dogs have moved off their straw and are lying in the snow, panting. Looks like I will probably drop Batty. He's drinking cold water and picking at food, but unless things seriously pick up with him in the next few hours, he will be catching a plane home. Crunchie and Jinx are nursing ouchy shoulders, but should be good to go out of here.
My time on the trail has been lovely. Beautiful scenery and fun runs. We are having a seriously good time. Lance Mackey was telling stories to the Insider over breakfast this morning about my dog team. He was very complimentary and I was so proud I almost burst out of my skin. I hope the clip makes it too the website. Anyway, sorry this isn't longer. If I had known we were allowed, I would have emailed when I had more time.
Karen

a few minutes later.........

Okay, now they just came by and said I'm not supposed to be on the computer. I told them a race judge got off of it to let me on. Apparently the race marshall told the Takotna folks we weren't allowed on. Looks like the right hand doesn't know what the left one is doing. Oh well. ;)
Karen


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Team NorthWapiti Finishes The 2008 Iditarod!!
12 Days, 6 Hrs, 52 Mins, 58 Sec